The idea is to get the heat going at the target temperature and keep it going at that temperature for as long as it takes to get the food inside the unit to the optimum internal temperature. Refrain from lifting the lid - if you're lookin' it ain't cookin'. Factors such as ambient temperature and wind can have an effect on the temperature as well as fuel consumption. Before setting up the barbecue, try to figure out the best location before adding fuel and lighting it up. Also, get all your gear nearby in order to be prepared to deal with any issues as they arise.
In summer time conditions, I am easily able to run a smoke session in the backyard. I'll use a sheet of plywood under the Weber to protect the grass underneath. You can put a layer of sheet metal on top of the plywood if you think that there's a risk of fire. It really doesn't get very hot at all under the BBQ, but better safe than sorry.
In less than ideal conditions (i.e. winter or rainy weather), try to find a sheltered location under some sort of cover. I have a patio with a roof overhead that is perfect, using some plywood and sheet metal to protect the patio surface. You don't want to accidentally ruin your deck or patio - I had a friend burn a nice charred hole into his vinyl deck once (but it wasn't a Weber smoker).
Here's a list of items that I'll have nearby using a small table next to the Weber:
- needle nose pliers for making vent adjustments
- a pair of heavy duty gloves
- remote temperature sending unit with probes
- bag of extra charcoal
- wood chunks
- a lamp (for night time sessions)
- large tongs
- a water source (usually a hose lying nearby)
- chimney starter
- rubber mallet
Before starting, take apart the unit so that the bottom section is ready to have the fuel added. Make sure the racks in the middle section are clean and set aside. Check for mould or other nasty growth on the inside surfaces of the entire unit. I will line the water pan with aluminum foil and lay a couple of clean rocks or bricks on top to prevent it floating. Then fill the pan with water. The foil makes clean up of the pan effortless.
In the bottom section, set a big tin can on the grate surround with charcoal. A long smoke session will require filling it entirely while a shorter session (for example, back ribs) will require less charcoal. Insert chunks of wood in amongst the charcoal. Pack some newspaper into the bottom section of a chimney starter and then add a few briquettes. I'll pop in three starter cubes and then top up with charcoal. Set the chimney on top of the large can and light the newspaper. Within 15 - 20 minutes, the charcoal will be ready to dump into the can. Remove the can with pliers and set aside with the chimney. The lit briquettes will eventually ignite the remaining charcoal (this is called the Minion method and is widely recognized as a superior means to get up to temperature in a quick and controlled fashion.
Place the middle section on top, then carefully put the filled water pan and racks in place. If using a probe, put one onto the grill. Add the meat and an internal probe, as well. Top it off with the lid and play with the vents. Usually the top vent is left completely open. The bottom vents will control the flow of oxygen and thus affect the temperature. Once you reach the optimum smoking range (ideally 225 degrees) use the vents to stay in that zone.
Modifications: I added a salvaged grate at right angles to the fire grate in the bottom section to keep smaller briquettes from falling through before they're completely done. Also, since I use a temperature probe sender/receiver, I found it useful to carefully drill a hole in order to pass the probes/cables into the smoker near the upper grate in the middle section. I found a threaded tube (used for ceiling light fixtures) with nuts on either end to prevent sharp edges from damaging the probe cables.
- needle nose pliers for making vent adjustments
- a pair of heavy duty gloves
- remote temperature sending unit with probes
- bag of extra charcoal
- wood chunks
- a lamp (for night time sessions)
- large tongs
- a water source (usually a hose lying nearby)
- chimney starter
- rubber mallet
Before starting, take apart the unit so that the bottom section is ready to have the fuel added. Make sure the racks in the middle section are clean and set aside. Check for mould or other nasty growth on the inside surfaces of the entire unit. I will line the water pan with aluminum foil and lay a couple of clean rocks or bricks on top to prevent it floating. Then fill the pan with water. The foil makes clean up of the pan effortless.
Water Pan being Filled |
In the bottom section, set a big tin can on the grate surround with charcoal. A long smoke session will require filling it entirely while a shorter session (for example, back ribs) will require less charcoal. Insert chunks of wood in amongst the charcoal. Pack some newspaper into the bottom section of a chimney starter and then add a few briquettes. I'll pop in three starter cubes and then top up with charcoal. Set the chimney on top of the large can and light the newspaper. Within 15 - 20 minutes, the charcoal will be ready to dump into the can. Remove the can with pliers and set aside with the chimney. The lit briquettes will eventually ignite the remaining charcoal (this is called the Minion method and is widely recognized as a superior means to get up to temperature in a quick and controlled fashion.
Lit Chimney on top of Large Tin Can |
Place the middle section on top, then carefully put the filled water pan and racks in place. If using a probe, put one onto the grill. Add the meat and an internal probe, as well. Top it off with the lid and play with the vents. Usually the top vent is left completely open. The bottom vents will control the flow of oxygen and thus affect the temperature. Once you reach the optimum smoking range (ideally 225 degrees) use the vents to stay in that zone.
Modifications: I added a salvaged grate at right angles to the fire grate in the bottom section to keep smaller briquettes from falling through before they're completely done. Also, since I use a temperature probe sender/receiver, I found it useful to carefully drill a hole in order to pass the probes/cables into the smoker near the upper grate in the middle section. I found a threaded tube (used for ceiling light fixtures) with nuts on either end to prevent sharp edges from damaging the probe cables.
Double Grate at Right Angles |
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